Hello Friends,
This posting has been a long time coming; parts of it have been written in Cairo, Egypt, the Sinai Peninsula, Eilat, Israel, Jerusalem, Israel, Newark, NJ, Detroit, MI, and Baltimore, MD. My recent travels might surprise many of you, as last you heard I had successfully fled Kenya and made it home to Detroit. Several important decisions have been made in the interim, and I thought I’d send out a quick (and final) update as I wrap up this chapter of my life and begin a new one. But first, the exciting and recent stories of my travels…
With several weeks to kill (more on that later) and not much for me in Michigan beyond exorbitant amounts of snow (and my lovely ladies), I decided to make good on several goals/promises to myself, as well as to take advantage of some serious frequent flier miles. So off I went, back to the Middle East!
I had been to Egypt several times from Israel, but had never left the Sinai Peninsula, and fount that to be a real shame. What’s more, I found myself genuinely craving the maddeningly ridiculous feel and ferocity of the third world. I do not use that term in a politically incorrect or loaded way, but rather, to describe parts of the world severely lacking basic infrastructure, and as a result, have pronounced poverty, chaos, and passion. Living in downtown Mombasa imbued me with a real appreciation for third world urban experiences, and Cairo seemed to fit the bill perfectly. In addition, my new found understanding of and familiarity with modern Muslim culture left me wanting more after my abrupt departure from the once friendly confines of Mombasa.
Multiple friends have remarked on how sadistic/senseless/stupid I must be to have chosen to go to Cairo to relax. After all, Cairo is a steaming mess of 18 million people, and is known for its chaos and disorder, not to mention seemingly open hostility to foreigners. Not exactly a Sandals resort in the Caribbean! I love my friends, but severely differed with them on this one, as that description of Cairo only served to further entice me. Plus, as well traveled as I am, how can I say “been there, done that” when I hadn’t even seen the pyramids (the only remaining of the original 7 Wonders of the World, not one of the many so called 8th Wonders of the World that range from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to the world’s largest ball of twine)?
The pyramids were truly all they are cracked up to be, and then some. I was very surprised by just how awe inspiring and impressive I found the Giza Plateau to be, having expected the pyramids and sphinx to be somewhat less than stellar, as so many things we build up to mythic proportions turn out to be when encountered in person. To explore the plateau I hired a guide and horses, and had one hell of a time. I bribed a guard to let me climb one of pyramids (the 4th largest in Giza), explored some tombs with ancient hieroglyphics, and generally just gazed at the pyramids. I also got some great pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/anappleanight/.
My time in Cairo was perfect. I spent several days barely talking to anyone (in fact, I played more charades more than actual speaking due to the language barrier), eating amongst the people, and generally just being content. No small feat for someone of my demeanor coupled with the events of the past months in my life. What’s more, after my time spent living amongst and interacting with the majority Muslim population of Mombasa, I feel very at home in the Muslim world, and feel lucky to have realized that “Muslim” as a catch all is as meaningless as “Arab,” with peoples of both sets coming from a million backgrounds and lifestyles, often times having less in common with each other than with this Jewish guy from the American mid-west.
After several delightful days in Cairo (while there I also visited some amazing Mosques, the ancient Islamic quarter, some shukhs, The Egypt Museum, and many things I could not fully comprehend), I boarded a bus to Taba, the border crossing with Israel on the Red Sea. It was long day (understatement), but a great experience nonetheless. It took me 14+ hours, two busses, and three taxis to get to Tel Aviv, and on the way I watched the varying and infinite landscapes of the desert role by. As usual, the real experience was in the journey, not just the destination. I met a few American Peace Corps members on the bus to Tel Aviv, and thoroughly enjoyed trading war stories with them, as they are all living in Armenia and had some unique insights into living abroad amongst the natives. None of them had been to Israel before, and it was a pleasure sharing some recommendations and opinions about Israel with them, as Israel has given me so much and I can point to Israel as being responsible for some major (and positive) decisions/directions in my life.
A quick back story to make way for the next part of my journey: the most incredible part of my tenure at the Embassy was the people I met. In one case I gained not just friends, but family. The Public Affairs Department’s secretary was a lovely woman by the name of Nurit Levy. She is insightful, wise, and as loving as they come. It wasn’t long once I started at the Embassy before we spent significant parts of the work day talking. Whether I was helping her with her English or she was advising me on recipes for my dinner parties, we quickly developed an excellent rapport. It wasn’t long before I became the best of friends with their youngest son, Maor, who had joined them in Washington, and a major admirer of her husband, Mickey, with whom I was known to enjoy an occasional cigar in the Embassy’s basement. Mickey, as some might know, is “kind of a big deal” (as my sister likes to say), having served as Jerusalem’s Commander of Police during some of the worst times of the Second Intifada. As a result of his heroism and humility Mickey is beloved by Israel and is an amazingly kind and gentle soul. He often tells me that I am like a son to him, and having him and his family in my life has been a real blessing.
Mickey’s posting as Israel’s Police Attaché in Washington ended last fall, and the Levy’s moved back to Jerusalem (they are 8th generation Jerusalemites!). It was with them I spent the majority of time in Israel, and to say I had a fabulous time would be a gross understatement. Liron, their 20 year old daughter is a fireball and a delight, and I had a fabulous time hanging out with her, in both Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. She is wise beyond her years, and the discussion I had with her had me revisiting past episodes in my life (i.e.: loving a shiksa!). While with the Levy’s I was lucky enough to see the camera control rooms for Jerusalem’s traffic and roads and the Old City, meet some of Israel’s business barons (complete with a strutting peacock), have dinner with many Chiefs of Police from the States (Austin’s and New York’s MTA were my favorites), as well as have a unique experience at the Kotel (Western Wall).
Besides getting to know Jerusalem beyond the tourist sites, I spent some time in Beer Sheva visiting some old friends (Israeli) and a former intern (American). The fact that my relationships with friends thrive no matter the context never fails to enthuse me. In Tel Aviv, one of my three favorite cities (tied with DC and Roma), I reconnected with some great friends, both old and new, and spent a moment imagining the life I could live in Tel Aviv. My trip was PERFECT. But fear not Jewish mothers, for my intention to live in DC is as resolute as ever.
I will not be returning to Kenya to work, for several reasons. This is mostly due to the crumbling infrastructure and continuing instability in Kenya, and my dislike for the way my NGO was being run. Simply put, good intentions are not enough in the development field, and that combined with putting my life at risk again does not make for the most desirable situation. I sincerely enjoyed my time in Kenya, and though time heals most everything, I think that there will always be tiny hole in my heart for what happened there and my friends I left behind.
The situation in Kenya is still far from resolved as the basic tenants of the situation remain unresolved. I say this despite the fact that a basic power sharing agreement was signed last week in Nairobi. Until there is a solution that Kenyans (not just their political elites) buy into, things will remain unstable, with sporadic bursts of violence and unrest across the country. My friends in Mombasa are trying to resume their normal lives, but are finding it very difficult, with many having lost their jobs, and random unrest an omnipresent threat and reality. With increasingly more distinguished international mediators and pressure, I remain hopeful that the initial agreement will pave the way for meaningful reconciliation. It is now up to the Kenyan legislature to act vote the new agreement into being.
With returning to Kenya not being an option in the short term (feasibility and stability) and long term (career and personal wise), I have decided to return to DC (I kept my apartment with a sub-letter in my stead), and enter the corporate world. The next weeks will be very telling, as I try to obtain a job in the strategic communications/PR field. In short, I realized that despite my wonderfully diverse experiences and eclectic resume, I am still lacking a defined skill set. It is with that in mind that I am embarking on this new career, intending one day to return to the NGO/non-profit world to put my skills to work helping others. I feel somewhat guilty and apprehensive about working for a company instead of a cause, but I feel that long term this is the best move, both personally and professionally, and that I am a worthy cause as well.
In the past weeks I have reveled in the knowledge and humility of just how young I am. Though it seems absurd to talk about switching careers at the tender age of 23, that is exactly what I am doing, and I couldn’t be happier. My modus operandi of late has invoked the old adage: when life gives you lemons, make lemonade. I can say with confidence and enthusiasm that I am making some bad-ass lemonade and am savoring every drop. If my final stop on this frenzied ride is a comfortable, warm, and hopefully fulfilling life back in Washington, then I consider myself to be more than lucky.
I am looking very forward to resuming keeping regular company with my amazing friends in DC, and to delving into a new profession. Last time I lived in DC I certainly lived it up, lapping up all the opportunities and diversions that go along with living in a vibrant city. This time around I look forward to living a simpler lifestyle and settling down a bit. With that in mind I intend to get a puppy (hypoallergenic) and a motor scooter (Vespa) and join a boxing gym. I am also very excited to announce that I am starting a book club for connoisseurs of modern fiction.
And so my friends, as this chapter in my life winds to a close, I bid you adieu (at least as far as mass emails go), and I extend my most heartfelt gratitude for your support, counsel, and humor that have served to fortify me through the ups and downs of the past months. The journey has been incredible. I look forward to seeing you all sooner rather than later, and to sharing in your simchas and shondas.
Much Love,
-DJT
P.S. In the course of my travels I have occasionally opened my eyes to the world around me, and on a select few occasions, thought about what I witnessed. Below are some of these observations. I hope that, at the very least, you find them amusing.
Observations:
Defining Ourselves- In the Hebraic tradition a man is defined by the past, his origins, his family, with his name ending in Ben ________ (son of _______). In the Arabic tradition a man is defined by the future, his offspring, with his name ending in Abu _______ (father of ______). I have not, unfortunately, arrived at any insightful interpretations of this reality, but am working on it, and in the meantime, would welcome yours.
Everything is Relative- Station wagons are considered to be very cool in Kenya. Why? People pimp them out like it’s their job, then cruise around with the tinted windows rolled down and their cheap speakers turned up. I just don’t get it.
Facial Hair- I grew a ’stache in advance of my trip to Cairo. In all honesty, I look terrible with a mustache, but felt that even a little bit of pronounced growth would grease my interactions with the Egyptians I would encounter. Keep in mind, I admittedly look less than charming with a mustache (think: used car salesman or confidence man). As Austin’s Chief of Police told me, it is obvious that the mustache is not me! Despite this, and my mother’s implorations, I went ahead with the ’stache, and could not have been happier. Case in point: I walked down the most touristic street in Cairo, wearing a ball cap and sneakers, carrying shopping bags, and generally walking around with my head in the air. Despite all this, I was consistently and repeatedly mistaken for an Egyptian, being spoken to in Arabic, and once I had made clear that I did not speak Arabic or was from Egypt, many a people insisted that my parents must surely be Egyptian, as I so clearly resembled an Egyptian! So take that ’stache naysayers! Epilogue: I shaved it as soon as I got to Jerusalem.
Love- My relationship with Israel is truly of the love-hate variety. Since I was introduced to Israel at the age of 15, we have had a passionate love affair, but not one without occasional bitterness and tension. I have been to Israel may times (approx. 15), but until this past week, had not been for two years, the longest absence in my adult life. The year I spent working for Israel’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs at the Embassy of Israel in Washington, DC was a good experience. To have had that opportunity and responsibility immediately out of college was fundamental, and I do not have any regrets about having worked there.
At the same time, as many of you know, the bureaucracy of the system was slowly beating the life out of my soul, and to stay at the Embassy was simply not feasible. Now, almost 10 months since resigning from the Embassy, I am able to reflect on the experience with a clarity tempered by time. I realize that a bitter taste was left in my mouth from the Embassy, and that recapturing and embracing my love for Israel was critical, and could only be accomplished by returning to the land. After seven short days amongst friends, family, and strangers in Israel, my love for Israel is as strong as ever, and I already pine for my return, shocked that I stayed away for so long.
While working at the Embassy I was privy to an insider’s look at the machine driving Israel’s foreign relations. The peace process, or lack thereof, was something I addressed every single day as I spoke to groups of Americans from across the country. I had the opportunity to meet with several of the lawyers and negotiators involved in the direct negotiations with the Palestinians, as well as the diplomats coordinating the process. Though I gained many insights and much experience while working at the Embassy, I realize now that I also lost hope; hope in the process, hope in peace, hope in reconciliation. After all, how can peace be made with a people and a culture, which those charged with bridging the gaps, do not understand themselves?
In addition, I was privy to the process of advancement within the Ministry, and what I saw was far from confidence inspiring. In many cases, “yes men,” or maybe better put, people who shied from rocking the boat at all costs, were those that advanced through the system. As a result, the culture is one of unquestioning acceptance that does not encourage new or innovative thinking. That genuinely saddens me, especially as I think back to many conversations I had with diplomats as they related how their efforts/initiatives had been stymied or blocked time and time again, for no other apparent reason that because they were outside the box.
And so, I was disappointed with the mode of operations at the Embassy, but would be far from surprised if bureaucracies around the world function in similar fashion. No matter, working at the Embassy was an experience I will not soon forget, and one that I will never regret. Peace in the Middle East…
Arsim: for those of you interested in learning more about a unique segment of Israel’s population, follow the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1q-RQlfiISA&feature=related
[...] Cairo, Career Choices, and Corleone Hello Friends, This posting has been a long time coming; parts of it have been written in Cairo, Egypt, the Sinai Peninsula, Eilat, Israel, Jerusalem, Israel, Newark, NJ, Detroit, MI, and Baltimore, MD. My recent travels might surprise many of you, as last you heard I had successfully fled Kenya and made it home to Detroit. Several important decisions have been made in the interim, and I thought I’d send out a quick (and final) update as I wrap up this chapter of my life and begin a new one. [...]
wow– really long blog post…. for a jew!
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